Two new Three Stars, Two new Two Stars, Five new One Stars, and Two Green Stars are big news out of the Golden State.
LessNew Three Star πππ- As has been the case since opening in 2005, purity and precision are the underpinnings of Chef Michael Cimarusti's California cooking, and his cuisine has grown even more impressive over the years. The tasting menu blends global inspiration and classic technique with a modern sensibility, and sources the freshest and most sustainable seafood, often wild-caught from American waters. At no point during the meal will you doubt its impeccable quality.
New Three Star πππ- Chef Aitor Zabala and his dedicated team have awakened Somni, Catalan for "dream," from a long sleep and have fashioned this revamped iteration as a distinctly personal and unique dining experience. Tucked away just off Santa Monica Avenue, the dining room's soothing, creamy palette with light wood and glass is marked by a colorful bull's head from the original spot, hinting at the Spanish-inflected cuisine.
New Two Star ππ- Industry veterans Chef John Wesley and general manager Julianna Yang have combined their talents at Kiln, where the warehouse space is warmed by personable service and the kitchen delivers artful creations. The tasting menu leans Nordic, highlighting preservation techniques like curing, drying and fermentation in dishes whose simplicity is belied by intricate techniques and compelling flavor combinations.
New Two Star ππ- Concealed inside an 1880 Victorian just steps away from Sonoma Plaza, once inside this glittering workshop, guests enter a rarified realm. An opulent tasting menu marries global flavors, refined technique, and exceptional ingredients, including local produce sourced from affiliated Stone Edge Farm, all shot through with subtle nods to Chef Brian Limoges' New England roots.
New One Star π- Good things often come in small packages, and it's certainly true of Lilo, where guests are welcomed to a moveable feast beginning on the heated patio with an array of small bites before moving into the petite dining room. Chef Eric Bost and his team take clear pride in providing an extra level of care in their dishes, evidenced in plates like dry-aged Japanese kinmedai paired with a ragout of geoduck and bone marrow or 40-day dry-aged beef ribeye.
New One Star π- A slightly clandestine air still prevails outside this inconspicuous little spot, but the secret is out: the handful of seats inside are hotly in demand. Chefs Alan Hsu and Sarah Cooper have both worked in some of the country's most celebrated kitchens, but here channel their talents on a more intimate scale.
New One Star π - With just a handful of seats and a small staff, this omakase from Chef Lennon Silvers Lee is ever-changing. Some things change daily, while others change weekly, but one thing you can always expect is well-executed dishes made with rice from Japan that is milled in house, and fish that is sourced both locally and from Japan and then dry aged. Arrive early and enjoy a glass of sparkling wine before being called in, as all guests are seated and served at the same time.
New One Star π - A note of elegant simplicity pervades the experience at this minimalist eight-seat counter, overseen by Chef Nozomi Mori and her streamlined, adroitly hospitable team. The unassuming space and soft-spoken service serve as a backdrop for an artfully prepared omakase that highlights purity and refinement. The lack of superfluous embellishment puts the spotlight on exceptional seafood (flown in several times a week from Japan) accented by seasonal produce.
New One Star π - You'll need to read the instructions sent ahead of time to find the entrance to Chef Ki Kim's restaurant, but any navigation woes are quickly put to rest once you're inside this ten-seat spot. The contemporary Korean tasting menu pulls in global influences, and meals begin with a few bites such as shirako gimbap, a shell filled with truffle rice and diced kimchi, or crispy, tender octopus in a creamy sauce with octopus head and gochujang.