Doko in Autry Park is casual but just-fancy-enough, with one of the most comfy sushi bars in town—and a $75 set menu that ranks among the cheapest in Houston. You get a bit of everything, including citrusy scallop aguachile and perfect toro nigiri flown in straight from Japan. But it’s also worth upgrading to the lobster milk bread toast and adding a few things from the a la carte menu: maybe a pork jowl skewer from the yakitori menu, and a wagyu cut roll that really lets the beef sing.

Kira in River Oaks from the team behind Neo has a wooden counter at center stage and 15 seats for its audience. They focuses on handrolls, with chefs routinely placing the temaki in your hand as if they were crisp $100 bills. When people aren’t eating nori stuffed with bouncy salmon roe or lobster, they're scooping spoonfuls of donburi with puffs of fresh wasabi.

If you’re looking for a high-end sushi experience, this is the one. The fish at Katami is so precise and punchy that we'd voluntarily embarrass ourselves by wearing a Rangers t-shirt to every Astros game if that were the only way to eat there. Order the $78 chef’s selection of sashimi for two, and what arrives is a mountain of ice with a crown of flowers and glistening cuts of silver-skinned gizzard shad, intense but sweet barracuda, and lipgloss-pink hamachi.

On any given night, the sushi counter at Kata Robata in Upper Kirby is always packed. Raw fish freaks know Kata fires on all cylinders when it comes to nigiri, sashimi, or the coveted omakase experience (which you have to specifically reserve). Sushi is all about temperature, and Kata nails it. Here, the vinegar-sweet sushi rice always arrives slightly warm, the expertly cut fish always slightly cool—the perfect bite.

The 16-course omakase at the tiny restaurant Neo HTX is one of Houston’s best sushi experiences. Even though it all happens in the back of a Montrose townhouse turned couture clothing store, you stop caring once the first dish lands. Not only do you get perfectly sliced pieces of Japanese sea bream, tuna belly, and torched A5 wagyu, but also free pairings of saké all night. Every piece of nigiri is so delicious, thoughtful, and beautifully presented.

MF Sushi executes one thing to near perfection: the nightly omakase. While the restaurant accommodates a full menu, the omakase experience is why you go to MF. Even though it’s expensive (roughly $300 per person), lasts most of the night (about three hours), and you will only hear electronic pan flute muzak the entire time, the omakase is totally worth playing endless phone tag with the hosts for a reservation.

A meal at Uchi, the Austin import that first hit Montrose in 2002, is the kind you save for birthdays or anniversaries. But a strategic Happy Hour is just as fabulous (just get there before 6pm). The menu here is jam-packed, and picking what to order feels like sitting down for a test you didn’t study for. Instead of busting out the ‘ole “close your eyes and point” method to decide, try the omakase.

Mash up a sushi restaurant with some infomercial salesman charm, and you’ve got 5Kinokawa in The Heights, a $150 omakase-only spot that’s open from Friday to Sunday. While the dining room is conspicuously filled with just as many carpentry tools as species of fish, you’re here to enjoy sushi. Nigiri pieces like flounder fin muscle, Santa Barbara spot prawn topped in caviar, and binchotan charcoal torch-seared A5 wagyu float out between the chef’s would-be standup special.

From the outside, what looks like a modest home with an adorable porch, is actually Handies Douzo, a sushi restaurant in The Heights that specializes in hand rolls. The inside of Handies is entirely made up of a wraparound counter with chefs in the center wheeling and dealing out hand rolls like cool sushi dealers. You should definitely get the buttery BGB salmon sake hand roll or the refreshing crab hand roll (or get a double hit of both).

Waiting in line for sushi at Oishii is a Houston right of passage. The tiny spot in Greenway is an institution—order the same custom maki roll enough, and your questionable taste could make it to the menu permanently. Oishii exists in a permanent liminal space where time and inflation fears have collapsed, with the same rock-bottom prices for years. You can still get Happy Hour BOGO $5 appetizers six days a week, lunch combos for $10, and nigiri pieces for as low as $1 (what the f*ck?).